Iceland is a desolate jagged rock which demonstrates natures unparalleled raw power with volcanic explosion and gushing lava to the more subtle and tranquil surroundings of sulphur pools and hot springs. Iceland is almost untouched by humans bar the odd colourful house here or there and makes for a perfect country to see the attractions around Reykjavik in a few days or even better to explore the whole country over a week or more. That is why I have come up with my ‘things to do in Iceland and Reykjavik’ from my adventure there. With the currency much weaker than a few years ago it is now much cheaper to explore and is a perfect time to visit Iceland.
I have been to more countries than the average Joe and Iceland is probably the best country I have been to. There have been better sights elsewhere but as a country I think it is tops. If you like nature then Iceland is a perfect place to get out into the outdoors with geysers, hot springs, bubbling sulphur, mountains, volcanoes, glaciers, waterfalls, birds, northern lights and even more waterfalls! One thing to remember is that there are only 320,000 people living in Iceland and nearly 70% of them live in or around Reykjavik. This means that once you are away from this area you really are on your own. Iceland is the most sparsely populated country in Europe.
Time to Do: It takes 6-7 days to drive around the country depending on how much you stop and hike. This is seeing the sights (incl Golden Circle), some walking but keeping moving. If you do several day treks or spend more than one night in one place then add these on. Reykjavik is a small city and most of the main sights can be seen in 1 day and a second is needed if going a little further afield.
If you are only there for 3 or 4 days (a long way to go for that time) then the organised trips around Reykjavik are good and you get to see all the main sights but if you are there for longer such as a week or more then I would definitely recommend you hire a car. There is one road around the country aptly called the ‘1’ and this goes by the coast like a ring around the country. The towering volcanoes in the centre of the country are not accessible unless you have suitable 4WD but there are still plenty (including the ash cloud volcano Eyjafjallajökull) to see from Highway 1 and you can get even closer by doing some treks. By moving along and seeing what there is to see without dwelling anywhere it is possible to drive around the country in 6 days. The trip is mesmerising. There is a lot of driving but the scenery is spectacular. You can pass icebergs one hour and then a short time later some boiling mud pools.
I’ll start off with Reykjavik and its surroundings before heading on a loop from south to north around the country.
Things to do in Iceland – Reykjavik
As cities go it’s not one of the best but there are still things to do and nearly all are within walking distance as the city is small. Lots of the Scandinavian wooden houses and the city is dominated by the huge Hallgrimskirkja church at its centre that can be very dreary on an overcast rainy day. Having said that there is a buzzing nightlife, lots of geothermal pools to relax in and if the sun shines then the dark look is taken off the place. You can see the city in a day and if you want more of the Viking history then two.
Hallgrimskirkja: This huge white church is behind the statue of Leif Ericsson who is a famous Nordic explorer that discovered America but didn’t tell anybody! The church can be seen from most parts of the city and is a good reference point. You can climb the 73mtrs tower to give great panoramic views of the city which is open from 09:00-20:00. Admission 600Kr.
Geothermal Pools: You can’t go to Reykjavik without going into a naturally heated pool. Some of them are like waterworld with lots of different pools at different temperatures. Some pools are so hot they are even difficult to get into even after gradually working your way up the scale of hotness to get yourself ready for it! There are lots of geothermal pools in Reykjavik and most are open 06:30-22:00 Mon-Fri and 09:00-19:00 Sat-Sun. Admission 550Kr. Below is a list of pools and opening times. Laugardalslaug is the city’s biggest pool and is part of the National Stadium. http://www.reykjavik.is/desktopdefault.aspx/tabid-3740/6165_view-1960/
Seafront and Conference Centre: Take a nice stroll down the sea front to feel the fresh breeze and to have a good look at Mt. Esja. Along the front you’ll view lots of birdlife and the Sun Voyager Viking ship before getting to the new and modern Harpa Conference building.
There were two of us at the Sun Voyager ship and I decided to set the camera on timer so both of us would be in the photo. After setting up the camera a small distance away I only had a few seconds to get into position before the picture was taken. The ground was wet and is made of marble or polished granite (some slippery surface anyway) and in my rush I managed to slip and wreck myself off the ground. As it happens I wouldn’t have made it in time as the camera actually got me falling much to the delight of my buddy!
National Museum of Iceland: Located at the campus of the University of Iceland it brings you through a history of the country to the present day. Admission 1200Kr
Icelandic Phallological Museum: If history isn’t for you then maybe some penises from different sea and land species in Iceland might interest you! Over 200 different specimens, something different anyway!!Open: 10:00-18:00 Mon-Sun. Admission: 1250Kr. http://phallus.is
Whale Watching: It is possible to spot minke and humpback whales all year round as well as dolphins, porpoises. There are 5 trips per day in summer (including a midnight sun trip) and one per day in winter. Cost 8,000Kr. www.whalewatching.is
Hiking Mount Esja: This 914mtr (3,000ft) mountain provides stunning views of the city and is a popular climb among the locals. Bus number 57 heading north will get you there. It should take around 4hr to get up and down.
Things to do in Iceland – Surrounding Reykjavik
This is where Iceland comes into its own and you get to see what people (including me) start to rave about. Even in small day excursions you get to see what is so unique about Iceland although anything in the Reykjavik area usually has lots of tourists
Golden Circle: Before I go on I’ll mention one of the most, sorry , the most, popular tour from the city, the ‘Golden Circle’ tour. It is a 300km round trip and takes in the historic sight of Thingvellir (Pingvellir), the huge waterfall Gullfoss and then the geothermal area Haukadalur containing the geysers geysir (where the word geyser comes from) and Strokkur. The tour takes around 7-8hrs. An approximate cost is 8,000Kr. Shorter more rushed tours are cheaper. If you have a car there is nothing stopping you just driving there yourself. There are plenty of car parks at each place right beside the attraction.
Thingvellir (on Golden Circle Tour): This ancient site of flatlands and water east of Reykjavik is the site of the longest running parliament in the world and is where the continental shelves divide. This UNESCO Heritage site is of huge historical importance as the parliament started first in 930AD and as it is part of the mid –Atlantic Ridge scientists think it is moving by 3mm per year, right on this very spot! Admission is free. If you scuba dive then Thingvillir offers one of the most unique places to dive in the world. You dive between two continental shelves and the visibility is usually over 100mtrs! (anywhere else it is usually it is around 30mtrs) www.dive.is
Gullfoss (on Golden Circle Tour): The Golden Falls as its name means is indeed spectacular and should be on every visitors list. It has a strange sideways fall to the valley it is in but it falls in 2 steps to its full 32mtr height that throw up rainbows when the sun is shining. The carpark and steps get very slippy in the autumn and winter.
Haukadalur Geysers (On Golden Circle Tour): One of the most spectacular natural sights you are ever going to see. Like clockwork the Strokkur geyser goes off every 8min or so. The larger geyser Geysir (sorry about that) used to gush water to 170mtrs in 1845 but only erupts a few times a day if at all and has stopped altogether recently. Strokkur on the other hand is very reliable and you will see it erupt to 30mtrs a few times when you are there. It’s unbelievable how nature can have something as rhythmic as this. The area has steam billowing everywhere so it gives the whole place a mystic look. The whole Haukadalur area has plenty of small bubbling pools, fumaroles etc to spend ages gazing in wonder.
Kerid Volcano:This eerie, extinct volcano is easily reached from the capital. The crater is about 170mtrs across with a lake at the bottom and has a lively atmosphere due to the moss growing around the rim and the red hue of the rocks.
The Blue Lagoon: If you go to Iceland you cannot help but see signs for the Blue Lagoon. In the airport, in the town, on the buses, in every tour agent, they are all over the place. A very popular tour from Reykjavik but personally I think it is a joke. It is expensive and the reason it is so popular is because of the marketing. The site is manmade, it is not natural. And do you know what they were doing when it was built? It was where the waste water accumulated when they were building the power plant beside it! After people bathed in it for some reason a few years later they discovered it helped with skin disease. Now that is great and I have no problem with that but at no point do they explain all this to you unless you do some background history on it beforehand. They keep telling you all the time it is all natural with natural ingredients and naturally heated water but they don’t tell you the water/steam you are bathing in has already been through the turbines and heat exchangers of the power plant! The place is identical to a Spa Resort with accommodation, bars, treatments etc. Admission being €40/€33 (high, low season). If you don’t have your own towel it will cost you €5 or you want a bathrobe €10. It is about 40min drive from Reykjavik towards the airport. www.bluelagoon.com. If you can resist the advertising then you are missing nothing. They do make it look cool in the photos though.
Things to do in Iceland – South Iceland, Heading east along Highway 1
You left Reykjavik and entered a more barren Iceland which still contained the tourists but once you leave the Golden Circle behind you are now truly out in the wilds with only ‘the one’ as your friend. Although it is Iceland’s main road there are very few cars on it (the one time we timed it we travelled for 1.5hrs at 130km/hr before seeing another car! And it coming in the opposite direction). But the lack of cars only adds to the desolate and barren atmosphere of pure nature. Waterfalls are a constant companion until they are overtaken by glaciers inland and to your right it is always flat with the sea at varying distances. I’ll mention the main waterfalls but it’s not possible to name all of them. In case you think I’m a bit slow I am aware that ‘foss’ means waterfall and I will be saying ‘waterfall waterfall’ but I am including it for clarity!
Seljalandsfoss Waterfall: A beautiful waterfall that plummets out over the cliff and allows you to get in behind it. A great introduction to the water delights to come. Easily seen from the road.
Eyjafjallajökull Visitor Centre (Ash Cloud Volcano): Located in Þorvaldseyr, is a family run visitors centre showing how and why the volcano exploded. The little tour including photos of the 2010 eruption and the damage it cause to the local farmers. www.icelanderupts.is
It is possible to climb or drive up to the volcano with a guide and experience the lava up close. It can be driven all year round. An expensive but unbelievable experience. For a jeep and walk for a day costs about 39,000Kr. A few place in Reykjavik do it. http://www.iceland.eskimos.is/Viewproduct/eyjafjallajokull-volcano-iceland, http://www.icelandrovers.is/day-tours/eyjafjallajoekull-volcano-tour/
Skogafoss Waterfall: One of the first big waterfalls you will see after heading south on Highway 1 is the beautiful Skogafoss Waterfall in Skogar. This 60mtr fall is like a noisy curtain and getting close requires getting wet. There is a museum nearby which details how the locals lived throughout the ages.
Hiking
There are lots hikes in the area which brings you up close and personal with the ice, lava rocks and snow which makes for great views and pictures. Make sure though to bring appropriate clothing.
- Hekla Volcano: It wasn’t called the ‘gates of hell’ for no reason. The most active volcano in Iceland that most recently erupted in 2000 and threw ash an incredible 30km into the air. Luckily the wind wasn’t blowing towards Europe at the time. It takes about an 8hr trip to hike up the 1490mtrs
- Fimmvörðuháls Hike: A 20km trek between Skógar and Fimmvörðuháls with a view of the now famous and unpronounceable Eyjafjallajökull volcano and countless waterfalls. There is about a 1000mtr elevation difference.
- Hvanngil Huts: These huts in the interior of the island sleep 70 people . The Midvegur route to the huts starts at the Keldur church site.
Foss a Sidu Waterfall: This tall stringy waterfall is seasonaland easy to spot from the road as it is located in-front of some farm buildings
Skaftafell National Park: This huge national park has walks that bring you close enough to touch the glaciers with several of them sprayed around the periphery of the park like your fingers from your hand. The Skaftafelljokull Glacier is the easiest to walk to through small rock paths. Very near Hofn town there is also the Hoffellsfjoll Walk which gives great views of the glacier below. The flat black sands stretching to the sea made from the ground down basalt rock is on the south side of your drive past Skaftafell which can be walked and drove on. This is also a good place to watch the bird life, throw a ball or pull donuts in your car! The website is www.vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is but is a little confusing. The maps are the best tool. It is worth remembering that Skaftafell NP near Hofn was founded in 1967. In 2008 it was made part of the larger Vatnajokull National Park whose main area is further east.
Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon: You drive over the lagoon exit in a car but it’s well worth stopping and checking out the truck size icebergs that are in the lagoon. They have fallen off the glacier only 1000mtrs away and are drifting slowly under your bridge out to sea. The open sea at the mouth of the lagoon is full of bergs of different shapes and sizes both on the beach and in the sea. About 65km from Skaftafell. In the wintertime the lagoon freezes leaving pillars of random bergs. It is where scenes from James Bond and Batman films were shot. It is possible to take snowmobile tours to the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier and take boat tours in the Jakulsarlon Lagoon. www.vatnajokull.is
Vatnajokull Reserve: One of the biggest icecaps in Europe that has 30 glaciers radiating from it and is the second biggest national park in Europe. Having said that it is not possible to see the whole park unless you are on an expedition. There are many hikes to be done, birds to be watched, kayaks to be kayaked and snowmobiles to be mobiled on the periphery! There is a tourist centre in Hofn and Skaftafell that will give much better information than I ever will. The visitor centre in Hofn is open from 11:00 from May-Sept. Despite the parks size there is not that much to do although when including the activity in the sea it adds up.www.visitvatnajokull.is
In 1996 one of the volcanoes under the icecap erupted resulting in a huge flood that was powerful enough to move a 1,000tonne block of ice kilometers downstream and many 200tonne blocks almost 30km, destroying the bridge of Highway 1.
Things to do in Iceland - East Iceland
When you get to the little visited east side of the island you drive by fjords, cliffs and puffins on your way before heading inland if sticking to ‘the one’. When on the south coast and you want to get to the north coast you must cross over the volcanoes in the middle. This gives you a chance to gain some altitude and see some great valleys from above. Due to the snow from approximately the start of November this road may be impassable but any locals will be able to advise you if it is safe to travel. It only takes a few hours to get up and then down the far side to below the snowline. You may be surprised to hear that at times Iceland’s main road (Highway 1) is not always tarmac. On some occasions it changes to compacted stone. There is nothing wrong with the road but it is just not tarmac. This mainly happens for short sections mainly on the east and north of the island.
The towns on the east coast are very small and the area is very wild. I did not stay in the towns on the east coast so I won’t pretend I did and dwell on the matter but there are world class fjords and bird watching sights on this site of the islands. www.puffins.is, www.birds.ie
Things to do in Iceland - North Iceland
The second largest urban area in Iceland is Akureyri and it holds…….wait for it………18,000 people! But before I get to that one of the highlights of my trip was just after descending down the northside of the mountains. On the long drive through nothingness before getting to Akureyri is the otherworld around Myvatn. There are so many cool things all within a few kilometres of each other and all right beside Highway 1. You will know you are coming to it as the land becomes very flat although you are not by the coast and it also become very barren, no life whatsoever. The ground becomes brown and somewhere between mud and sand.
Dettifoss Waterfall: The largest waterfall in Europe by volume. It is up the gravel road 864 that is on the east side of the falls or road 862 that is on the west side. These roads are only open during the summertime
Námafjall, Hveraröndor Hverir: As you drive on the brown wasteland you will notice some steam coming out of the ground when you are passing Namafjall. This area is full of boiling mud, steam fumaroles, sulphur stained little holes where you can just walk around and admire nature at its strangest. The place is filled with brown soil, white billowing steam, bubbles of grey mud and yellow stained vents. If you are driving then you can also take the road to the right a little before this point and you end up driving by a boiling stream that is flowing down the mountain and end up at some lakes at the top.
Dimmuborgir: As you descend on the road a few kilometres after the Namafjall activity you will pass through Dimmuborgir As well as admiring the moon type landscape, craters and beauty of Lake Myvatn from a height you can see these weird rocks as you decend. This strange lava arches, caves and cliffs make for strange viewing after the lifeless area that has gone before.
Hverfell Crater: You continue another kilometre or two down onto the flat and all the while you can see a volcano on your right but also a perfect open cone crater on your left. It looks so smooth as if made out of fine black sand. It’s easy to get to with a hard black sand track a few hundred meters long straight off the main road. It is climbable in 20min to the top with a path up the side to give views of the crater inside and the surrounding flatland.
Thermal Pools: I would highly recommend, no I insist, anybody in this area does this. Just at the start of the sand track to the Hverfell Crater you can park your car on the left. There is a very long, approx 3mtr high, ridge that looks like an earthquake or something ripped through the landscape. The ridge is kilometres long. What lies underneath is glorious. If you go under the ridge as parts of it are broken, a stream runs through it. The stream though is roasting and perfect for bathing. Make sure to go into the caves that are nearer the track because they are cooler (although probably around 40deg Celsius (104F)). If you go further away from the track then the water is so hot it is impossible to get into. There are no changing rooms, no toilets, no fuss, no admin fee. It is right out in the middle of nowhere in a cave that you have to scramble from the sand down a few rocks to get to. But it is definitely worth it. The water is crystal clear and just on the right side of hot so you can get wet. After 10min of sitting in the water you feel a bit like a chicken in an oven and need to get out as you are cooking! Brilliant spot, just go!
When I was there with my buddy we met two young Americans when climbing Hverfell Crater that had been looking for these pools. We dropped them back to their car and eventually found the stream under the ridge. When one of them went to go into the first cave he discovered that there were two locals swimming naked in there and decided to go to a different cave. We all tried to get into the water that was 100yards further down but after many attempts we still couldn’t get in as it was too hot. One of the locals happened to come down ten minutes later laughing at us still not in the water and told us to come up to them as he obviously knew it was too hot where we were. We did and got into the crystal clear water with them and sat on the underwater rocks. The man happened to be a guide during peak season so he treated us to a history of the area and Iceland when sitting there as the woman was swimming around the place leaving nothing to the imagination. He was quite animated so when he was describing what happened when Magma Plumes exploded he jumped out of the water. There were bits bobbing everywhere!
Lake Myvatn: At 37Km2 it is Iceland’s 4th largest lake but surprisingly it is only 2.5mtrs (8ft) deep. The lake is full of islands, fish, birds and also pesky flies. Its claim to fame is during the summer there are more species of duck here than anywhere else in the world.
Akureyri: When you arrive it’s almost like you forget what towns and civilisation look like. As said above although it’s the second biggest metropolis in Iceland, the place is tiny. It has of course lots of natural geothermally heated pools, a museum, golf courses and ski resorts. One of the big draws though for North Iceland is the whales. Humpback, minke and even blue Whales as well as dolphins can be spotted off the north coast. Whale watching can be done from Akureyri, Husavik or Dalvik . Cost is about 10,000Kr for 3hrs. www.ambassador.is is in Akureyri.
There is opportunity to go white water rafting on the glacier meltwater. In Akureyri you can go rafting all year round. www.sagatravel.is or with www.arcticrafting.com in Varmahlíð (can organise pick up from Akureyri). Trips cost approx 20,000Kr per person for a day trip.
As is the case in all of Iceland but especially in the north is the opportunity just to drive and see the stunning coastline and wildlife where the guidebook doesn’t tell you. In North Iceland there are many peninsulas of varying size that have gravel roads (open all year) all around the periphery so the adventurous you can explore where very few have gone before.
Hvítserkur Sea Stack: On the eastern side of the Vatnsnes Peninsula, this 15mtr high sea stack just off the shore. There and at the estuary is a good place to spot seals.
Seal Spotting: Vatnsnes is a great place to be able to spot seals bobbing in the water and there are many places and towns where they are known to hang out. In the town of Hvammstangi there is the Icelandic Seal Centre where you can educate yourself on the types and habits of seals and where best to view them. www.selasetur.is/en/home.html
Hiking: There are lots of hiking and trekking opportunities to be availed of during the summertime in Iceland. Around Sauðárkrókur there are easy walks whereas around Hólar a small bit further east the terrain and altitude makes it tougher. Between Akureyri and Husavik there are also plenty of walks to be considered. As there are so many trails it is best to ask in a local tourist office for advice for the best trails in the area as unlike most countries, in Iceland there are usually not too many people around outside the towns.
Things to do in Iceland - Northern Lights
Are one of the great natural phenomena of the world and they can be seen all over Iceland but with a better chance in the north. The best months to see the northern lights are during March and October but they occur all year round. During the long days of summer when it never gets dark you will not be able to see them as it will be too bright. No matter what is happening in the upper atmosphere if it is cloudy where you are you won’t see a peep so always keep in mind that there is luck involved. That is why you should never plan your trip solely to see the Aurora Borealis and plan nothing else. Something as simple as a cloudy night and you are scuppered and also sometimes the northern lights just done happen. If you plan to do activities then at night time you can still head out to see them. This way if the lights don’t happen you can still have a good time. Ideal conditions are to be away from city lights (not hard outside Reykjavik) and ensure there is no or very little moon. These are within your control but the clouds and the solar activity are not. Forecasts are generally not great outside 3 days.
Things to do in Iceland - Westfjords
This wilderness of fjords and valleys is home to a huge array of birds that are not inhibited by the cliffs and peninsulas. Other wildlife such as the arctic fox prowl the land. I did not visit this almost uninhabited area so I can’t guide you on it but if you need any more info go to www.westfjords.is
Things to do in Iceland – West Iceland
Known as ‘The Sagaland’ because where most of the saga’s were written in West Iceland. Sagas are family prose that describe family and interfamily disputes and arguments that took place 1000 years ago. Egils Saga, Sturlunga, Laxdaela and Eyrbyggja are some of the better known sagas. These disputes took place generally between the 3rd and 4th generation Icelandic settlers and are an integral part of Icelandic folklore.
Reykholt is one of the most famous historical sites in Sagaland that contains farms, hot water baths, tunnels etc that have been discovered from the 13th century. There is a cultural centre in Borgarnes which brings the visitor through the early settling of Iceland and of Iceland’s vikings. http://english.landnam.is
Birdlife: 60 of the 75 breeding bird species in Iceland nest in West Iceland so again there is a huge opportunity to see them. Breidafjordur Bay and Faxafloi Bay are the best places
Practicalities – About Iceland
€1 = 162 Icelandic Krona, US$1 = Kr 126
- Language – Icelandic. English widely spoken by hotels, tour operators, restaurants and by the general public.
- Bus – There are several ways to get around by bus, either by guided tour or by public bus. The public bus company BSI co-ordinates all buses and will go to any main town on the ring road and includes others further afield. This is not as cheap as you may think. Passes can be got for different areas of the country and tours can be taken on all of the main tourist routes. A ring road pass for example will cost 38,500Kr.
- www.bsi.is
- http://www.nat.is/travelguideeng/bus_stop_the_real_icelandic_old.htm
- Flights- Keflavik International airport is in Reykjavik. Reykjavik to Akureyri during the summer is very popular and there are several flights each day but there are also flights to smaller towns that go a few times a week. Air Iceland (www.airiceland.is) in Iceland’s national carrier. SAS, Norwegian Air, Avion Express and EasyJet all fly to Reykjavik all year round with Lufthansa, German Wings, Air Greenland, Austrian Airlines, Air Berlin, Delta, Edelweiss all joining during the summer months.
- Air Iceland and Eagle Air (www.ernir.is) fly domestically.
- Visa: If you are going for under 90 days and are from the EU, Canada, USA, Australia, New Zealand as Iceland is under the Schengen Agreement you will not need a visa beforehand. If you are from another country then other stricter rules apply. For more information visit www.utl.is/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=16&Itemid=17&lang=en
- Accommodation – $60 per night for an average double room in Reykjavik. Can get very expensive.
- Population of Iceland: 320,000
Things to do in Iceland - Map of Iceland
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 |  Hallgrímskirkja, Reykjavik, West, Iceland |
| laugardalslaug, Reykjavik, Capital Region, Iceland |
| Harpa – Reykjavik Concert Hall and Conference Centre, Austurbakki, Reykjavik, Capital Region, Iceland |
| Esja Mountain, Capital Region, Iceland |
| Thingvellir National Park, South, Iceland |
| Haukadalur, Iceland |
| Gullfoss Waterfall, South, Iceland |
| Kerið, South, Iceland |
| Blue Lagoon, Southern Peninsula, Iceland |
| Seljalandsfoss, Skógar, Iceland |
| Eyjafjallajökull Erupts, South, Iceland |
| Skógafoss, South, Iceland |
| Hekla, South, Iceland |
| Fimmvörðuháls, South, Iceland |
| Hvanngil, South, Iceland |
| Kirkjubæjarklaustur, South, Iceland |
| Skaftafell, East, Iceland |
| Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, East, Iceland |
| Vatnajökull, Höfn, Iceland |
| Dettifoss, Northeast, Iceland |
| Námafjall, Northeast, Iceland |
| Dimmuborgir, Northeast, Iceland |
| Hverfell, Northeast, Iceland |
| Hverfell, Northeast, Iceland |
| Lake Myvatn, Northeast, Iceland |
| Akureyri, Northeast, Iceland |
| Hvitserkur Ehf, Sauðárkrókur, Northwest, Iceland |
| Reykholt, West, Iceland |
| Hótel Breiðafjörður, Stykkishólmur, West, Iceland |
| Faxafloi-Dyb, Iceland |
Hey, great info and pics. What would be a good itinerary for 2-3 days?
Thanks.
If you are there for that time then the ‘golden circle’ is good. The three main things are Thingvellir (scuba dive if you have dived before), the geysers and Gullfoss. This definitely gives you some highlights and can be done in a day and another in Reykjavik. If you had the money to rent a car and were there for 3days then you could see the above but also head as far as Jokulsarlon Lagoon/Skaftafell (passing the ashcloud volcano)and you would really see loads of cool waterfalls and what the rest of iceland is like. Its about a 4.5hr drive directly. Buses also go this way but obviously wont stop at the waterfalls.
Ross
What a fantastic overview of Iceland. I am planning a trip for 7 nights early December and we love to organise our own road trips. (Have done 3 round the USA with their National Parks for example)
Much of the recommendations I see are for organised tours in Iceland, but after your blog I think we will do our usual, and go it alone.
Can I ask what part of your trip you would drop to squeeze it into a 7 day tour (8 at a push)? Tough question I know. I doubt there will be much hiking in December, we like scenery, driving and stopping to explore, wildlife, waterfalls, geysers (go to Yellowstone if you get the chance) glaciers. Not keen on cities, or museums (or culture!) not really bothered about seeing Rejykavik.
Your thoughts on the Blue Lagoon are interesting, I will read up on that.
So pleased I read your report, thanks again.
Heather
Thanks, I’ll send you an email
Wow so glad I stumbled upon your tripadvisor threat and checked out your website. This was so informative and is now making me think about extending my stopover from a day and a half to two and a half days. Originally I was looking at staying at the Northern lights Inn because it is close to the Blue Lagoon but now I’m not sure where to stay. Do you have any suggestions on places and a 2 day itinerary? ( we do not dive )
Hi,
Thanks, I’ll email also. I would say you should definitely do the golden circle tour as although it is very touristy it is also very good and easily done in a day. Any tourist company in Reykjavik will do it. Reykjavik is worth a look around and the geothermally heated pools are worth a visit and are open to the public (there is a big one beside the stadium) but you could go to this after a golden circle tour depending on the time you get back.
The golden circle, seeing Reykjavik (and pools) and northern light tour would take up 2days. If you weren’t into seeing the city then there are places such as Kerid volcano that may be on the golden circle tour or not as some companies skip it or Eyjafjallajökull (ash cloud volcano) tour that is expensive but could also take a day. The Visitor Centre located in Þorvaldseyr could also be done but only if you are near it. If you are it would be a third option of getting a bus south to some of the waterfalls on the Highway 1. They are really cool but probably not worth doing if you are not driving as you will spend more time getting on/off buses and then waiting for them.
A note on Blue Lagoon, the place is like a spa resort and it is nice, so if you like that sort of thing and take it as a normal spa resort and are willing to pay the expensive prices for that then fine. The problem I had with it is that they market it as all natural which it’s not and charge you high prices as if it was all natural.
Regards,
Ross
iceland seems to be a far away heaven from australia … but after reading this … my husband and i are definitely going in aug 2014 and would be hiring a motorhome for 10 days … thank you so much for this inspiration …
Thanks. You wont regret it.
Very useful information on an amazing country, we travelled there in 2012 and I still miss it now!
Thanks. Yeah the country is spectacular, so wild.
Hi. Firstly, you got an incredible blog full of good information about Iceland (thanks about that). A friend of mine and me are planning to travel there on May (probably on the second week) and we´ll definitely rent a car to trip around the country. We read this blog and we´ll probably follow what you´ve done but we have a doubt and it´s about the car, what kind of car did you rent? was it 4×4 or a normal one? Thanks once again for your amazing explanation about travelling around Iceland.
Thanks Luis. The car we rented was the cheapest we could get from an international company, ie. it was a new Opel Corsa, a small car. This was fine for the trip. Some of Highway 1 is not tarmac but you are still on the main road and the road is good (just not tarmac). There are roads called ‘F’ roads that go into the interior up the mountains which you definitely need a 4×4 for and you are not insured for. These roads though would be barely driveable with a normal car so you will be fine with any car. I went when it had started to snow and we had no problems so you will have no trouble in May
hello mate superb blog!
looking to go for new year any ideas where best to stay for that night? also would you say it was better to hire a car to do golden circle tour and move hotels etc along the way
looking to stay around 5days
Thanks again rossco
Thanks, I stayed in Reykjavik Backpackers which is a grand spot and very central but maybe you are not the backpacking type. If you are only going to do the Golden Circle then it might be better just to get a tour as it can be done in one day but I would spend one day seeing Reykjavik but the other 4 doing the Golden circle (1day) with a car and then heading down the south coast as far as Jokursarlon Lagoon where Hofn is not far past. Total 11hrs driving (out and back) over 4 days but you wont notice the time with the scenery. It’s a really spectacular drive and you get to see the true Iceland. This includes countless waterfalls, black beaches, glaciers, icebergs and of course the ash-cloud volcano which I cant pronounce!
hi Ross. Just wanted to let you know that I found your blog invaluable in my recent trip to Iceland, so thanks a mill. What a place! Def. going back & next time hope to find the ‘hidden’ pools near Hverfell Crater
We came so close – finally found the ridge but unfortunately just didn’t have the time to investigate further. Saw 4 guys wandering around the ridge when we left.
My friend & I wild camped as much as poss. & found a perfect spot near ‘Klauster’.
Thanks again for all your shared info.
Thanks, that’s great. Iceland really is a cool spot. I must get back there myself.
Thank you for providing a generous amount of information about Iceland. I will arrive in Reykjavik this December to experience nature like nowhere else in the world. I pray to the weather god to provide suitable weather for photographing the northern lights, and completing the Golden Circle drive without incidents in a rented car.
Hi
We are staying in reykjavik and hiring a car for a few days. We have booked accommodation in Akureyri for 2 nights and we are looking for ideas on where to stay for our last 2 nights before we head back to Reykjavik.(1 night in each place). Any ideas would be most welcome (was looking at Bildudalur/Stykkisholmur/Arnarstapi etc).
Although I really wanted to go I didn’t have time to head into the wilds of Isafjord so I can’t really help you. Although I know that it really is the wilds and I was told the journeys take longer than you think. I was also told the further north the better
Hi Ross, I am planning a trip in Iceland on March 2 to March12. I already rented a jeep, Toyota 4X4. I found a guesthouse in Reykjavik, for two nights. On the March4 , we will take the car and start to go around. First the Golden Circle and then to Skogar for the night. The 5 we will drive to Jokulsarlon and from there I have nothing plan, No hotel , or visit. We will try to go around , it will all depend of the meteo. Do you think I should plan longer time around the golden circle and then drive around. I could cancel my room for the 5 and pass one night around the golden circle. Do you have any information You co9uld tell me . Thank you
Hey. Reykjavik is a nice city but small so if you spend 2 nights there that is plenty. The golden circle really only takes one day, it is really good (and touristy) but worth it. If you plan on scuba diving in the tectonic plates this obviously would take an extra day but the golden circle you should plan for just one day. Regarding the rest of your trip. You should definitely do a circle of the island. You have plenty of time as you could do it comfortably in 5 days but you have 7. I think the best part of Iceland is just the general views. The south coast is just spectacular to drive on. The black beaches and all the waterfalls. If you drive as far as Jokulsarlon you will pass plenty of spectacular waterfalls right beside the road. The Laugavegur trail, which runs between Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk is very good if you like hiking but of course you can just do the start and not overnights but I think may be closed in March. I did plenty of walks on the beach, near Hof and up to the mouth of a glacier that we saw from the road. The north is a little different, more rugged, but no less spectacular. As I said just driving and looking out the window is worth the visit to Iceland. Near Myvatn lake there is bubbling soil and plenty of seals ups north.
In summary my advice would be to spend 1 day on the golden circle and then do a circuit of the island. The roads are extremely quiet. You actually don’t need a 4 x 4 unless of course you like the space or there is a group of you.
Let me know how you get on if you do.
Hi there-great site/post! I’m wondering if you have any advice for things to do the first week in May (Reykjavik or beyond)for a solo female traveler. I didn’t think the dates through and now the more I read, the more it seems it’s a quiet time between the excitement of ice caves and the northern lights and the summer fun of midnight sun and outdoor festivals where not much seems to be going on. I also considered a helicopter trip but from what I’m reading, the unpredictable weather may throw a kink in that plan. Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks Pam. Firstly being a solo female traveller shouldn’t impact you at all in Iceland. It is safe and very gender equal.
I dont think May will be as bad as you are making out. If you go in the sumemr the weather is beautiful but you miss the caves and northern lights etc. Of course in the winter it is very cold and raining so not ideal that way either.
My advice would be to do some travelling on the southern side of the island. It is really really beautiful. Renting a car would be the best but that will be expensive on your own but do it if you can afford it. Do the Golden Circle and then seperately try to get a bus along the south coast (if not a car). Maybe go to Hofn. You will pass super scenery, waterfalls, black beaches and Jokersarlon if you go that far. if you had your own car then you can just stop anywhere you want which is handy. You will also pass the Ash cloud mountain on the way. Of course there are tours to that also from Reykjavik. i’m not sure about tours though to places like Jokersarlon but I’m sure any hostel/hotel would know.
I think a week wouldnt be enough to bus around the country but if you did have a car then you could do it. The island is very quite. Once you get onto the coast you could drive for an hour at 100km/hr and not pass another car.
We did 11 days ring road trip of Iceland in Sep 2016 and happy to say that we witnessed the wonder of northern lights just one night!!!
We didn’t hire 4X4 as we stuck to main roads and please note the roads are virtually empty and route 1 is the main road that circles the country. You can make all sort of activities and attractions within this route 1.
There are a few attractions that you need to go a little off track but not too much that you needed a 4X4 unless you want to drive yourself to basecamp of tongue of Glacier for snowmobiliing.
Thanks for that
Hi Ross, great site! i’m planning to spend 2 weeks in Iceland on May and to hire some car (hope 4×4). need your help in planning this trip. sleeping as less as possible and only ride, hike, see the beautiful views and simply travel. sleeping in camping/hostel. pls help me to plan it right. appreciate and thak you very much!
Lisa, my advice would be to rent a car as it would be the best but that will be expensive on your own and do a lap of the island. You could do the island in 5 days if you really wanted to so 2 weeks is plenty. Maybe you could save money by taking a little less time and spending an extra few days in Reykjavik and doing a boat tour, fallic museum, hot baths etc. Do the Golden Circle as it is good and easy and will take about a day. On the south coast you will pass super scenery, waterfalls, black beaches and Jokersarlon which is a mad little spot. If you have your own car then you can just stop anywhere you want which is handy. There are several very long hikes you can do or several times on the south coast we just parked up and walked to a glacier (a bit of a mad concept but really cool). Remember the Ash cloud mountain but I think you need a tour for that and it is fairly expensive.
If you scuba dive you can dive between two techtonic plates not far from Reykjavik with 100mtrs visibility so that would be well worth doing if you dive.
The very north west of Iceland is supposed to be brilliant scenery and good for bird watching. I never made it that far so can’t tell you too much about it unfortunately.
In summary, do a lap of the island. Definitely worth it. You dont need to go anywhere in particular, the scenery is spectacular everywhere. It really is
Hi Ross,
Thanks for your informative blog! Much appreciated! My girl friend and I are planning our road trip to Iceland at the last week of September. We are wondering if the road condition is safe enough for the two of us to do a round trip. We have 6.5 days in total. Would it be too tight? Thanks.
Yes the road conditions should be fine during this time unless there is a very unusual cold snap. I went in November and it was fine. The only part that is high and could be subject to road blocking is on the east of the country when you go from south to north. But as I said, September should be fine.
The other question of 6.5days is a little different. If you have 6.5days in total in Iceland then this is very tight. Very doable (you could do it in 5 days) but just involves a good few hours of driving each day. You should see Reykjavik for a day or so and then the golden circle also takes most of a day (or 3/4 anyway). If you have 6.5days set aside to drive around only then you should be fine. Even though you may spend a lot of time driving and not that much walking etc it is still very spectacular. The scenery and waterfalls are unbelievalbe and sitting in the car is still a joy as the landscape is so good. If you don’t mind being in a car then you should definitely do the round trip. If you are not such a huge fan of the car then maybe you could just do the south coast which involves a little less driving.
Hope this is of help.
Hi Ross,
Great website with really useful information – thanks. I am planning a self drive trip going all the way around for 12 nights originally for late August based on just seeing the beautiful scenery and wildlife. Having now read of the higher probability of seeing the Lights as early as September would you advise moving the trip to a little later from the beginning of September or is the increased chances negligible and the weather likely to be significantly worse?
Also have to say my wife and I like our creature comforts – is there good accommodation all the way round the island (even at a higher price if necessary)?
Thanks in advance for any help…
Rob,
12 nights is a great round trip. The chances of seeing the lights are low enough at that time. Obviously there is a chance in September but cloud can ruin any chances like it did mine. If it suits your plans then you may as well do it but I wouldnt make any mad changes that cause you hassle just based on that. Remember the weather will get a little worse the later you leave it also. There is reasonable accommodation all the way around but we are talking 3 star b&b’s and not 4star hotels. The scenery though is well worth any drop in accomommodation stars and well worth is. Remember the second biggest town outside the Reykjavik areas only has a population of 16,000!